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Nasi Jinggo, Food of Denpasar's Cowboys - Bali There was a time when midnight cowboys roamed the streets of Denpasar, and the remnants of those days still exist. We will tell you a secret and it is all about food. It is possible that you have been seen the small pierce of board along the street in the evening offering ‘nasi jinggo’ for sale. Just read on and learn the unique origin of this name. Nasi means cooked rice and this is the simplest form of food in Bali that you can get. Wrapped in banana leaf, nasi jingo consists of one scoop of rice plus sambal chili condiment, a small portion of beef or chicken. Vendors open from around 6 pm and sell until almost dawn. It is a popular food amongst the locals. So what is the source of the nasi jingo? Many people think that it is related to the price. Supposedly jenggo comes from Chinese word jing-go, or ceng go, meaning 1,500 rupiah which is the price of one parcel of rice. However, the name nasi jingo has been attached to the food back when it cost only 500 rupiah. It was also the name used about twenty years ago, when the price of one portion was a mere 250 rupiah. So what is the meaning of jing-go or ceng-go? Anyone how says that the names comes from its recent price has no knowledge of what Bali was like twenty years ago, when mass tourism was not flourishing, when Denpasar and Kuta were not crowded and when the price of one bottle of beer was cheaper than jing-go. Those were the days of the midnight Denpasar and Kuta cowboys. The initial name of the food was nasi Jango. Yes, Jango. This name was not a reference to Jango Prett from Steven Spielberg’s Star War; it was taken from the name of a character in a series of spaghetti westerns played primarily by Franco Nero. These cowboys character was notable for dragging a coffin containing a gun and a belt of ammunition behind him. If you are old enough to remember the 1970’s, there was a time when cowboys dominated the scenes of movie theaters. In Bali, “cowboys” also hung around Kuta Beach during the 1970’s until the first half of 1980’s, when the rule of fashion amongst local Kuta goers was determined by the cowboy’s style. But the ideal cowboy was not in the western’s such John Wayne or Ronald ‘Iron Horse’ Reagan or Michael ‘Bonanza’ Landon or Anthony ‘Lone Ranger’ Quinn. They were simply to tidy, to neat, for the Kuta hippies of those day. The spaghetti western character of Jango was the hero for Kuta and Denpasar youth. He never shaved and he looked like he never slept. He was not as ‘clean’ as him above mentioned Hollywood counterparts. Bali has always existed between two layers of culture (perhaps more). The first layer tells the classical stories of Mahabrata or Ramayana, as well as the traditional dancers and sculptors. The second layer is represented by the music rooms of ‘growling’ underground rock bands, the punks and ska followers complete with black t-shirt’s and pierced body parts. In the 1980’s, modernization in Bali was present in the form of the Kuta and Denpasar cowboys. They wore denim jeans and high heel boots. Hats were optional. Remember, back in those days it was not a low to wear a motorbike helmet. With a t-shirt or even bare chest, the Balinese Jango’s also wore waistcoats; the popular brand of the day was JakPAK! They rode on trail motorbikes, or if wealthy enough, on Harley Davidson’s. They were the biking cowboys, sometimes drunk n whisky or local rice wine and other times just settling for a glass of Bali coffee. So how did their cowboy nickname of Jango become the name of a parcel of rice? Simple, it was because this was the choice of food of the Denpasar Jango’s after spending their night hours cruising around Kuta. In those days there was only one route that linked Denpasar and Kuta. The route started in pemecutan (Jalan Thamrin) Denpasar, and then to Jalan Raya Kuta that led to Jalan Bakungsari Kuta. There was no Jalan Teuku Umar and definitely no Sunset Road. After spending most of their night in Kuta, the Jango’s would return home and needed something to eat. With empty pocket from drinking all night the food source had to be cheap. This was available at the Suci terminal, which was a station of public transport from Denpasar to Kuta. A seller provided the cheapest parcel of rice all night long under the shadow of the cinema complex which often displayed the huge promotional posters of the face of Franco Nero the Jango. Another rice seller shortly opened near the Indra Theatre on Jalan Gajah Mada. Hence, when people saw the Kuta and Denpsar jango’s frequently buying their rice it soon became the unofficial name for this small food parcel. The food of the Jango’s became known as nasi jingo – the food of the cowboys! It was eaten leisurely with fingers whilst leaning back on the motorbike in the parking lot. So if you want to relive a pierce of Kuta and Denpsar cowboys’ history, buy a portion of nasi jingo. These days it sold on all major streets around the city.
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